Eighteen essential terms defined in plain English — climate zones, soil types, organic pest control, companion planting, microclimates. Reference as you garden.
The northernmost of Australia's five climate zones, covering Cairns, Darwin, and north Queensland. Characterised by distinct wet and dry seasons, high year-round temperatures, and high humidity. Best suited to tropical fruit (mango, banana, papaya), heat-tolerant vegetables, and species that tolerate monsoon conditions.
Covers Brisbane, the Gold Coast, northern NSW, and the coastal regions between tropical and temperate zones. Warm humid summers, mild winters, year-round growing season with frost-free conditions. Suits citrus, avocado, ginger, and a broad range of vegetables outside peak summer.
Covers Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, and Perth — the most populated AU zone. Distinct four seasons, warm-to-hot summers, cool winters with occasional frost. Broadest range of vegetables and fruit tree options; planting windows are tightly seasonal.
Covers Tasmania, the Australian alpine regions, and Canberra. Cold winters with heavy frost, mild summers, shorter growing season. Best for cool-season crops (brassicas, peas, broad beans, root vegetables) and cold-hardy fruit trees (apples, pears, stone fruits).
Covers inland NSW, South Australia, and western Queensland. Very low rainfall, hot days, cold nights. Drought-tolerant natives and Mediterranean-origin plants (rosemary, lavender, olives) suit this zone; water-intensive vegetables struggle without heavy irrigation.
Australia's official weather service, responsible for forecasts, warnings, and climate data across the country. BOM provides the live weather feeds that SteadGrow uses to tune plant care advice to local conditions.
A small area within a garden or property with measurably different conditions from surrounding areas — usually driven by sun exposure, wall proximity, wind protection, or elevation. A north-facing wall creates a warm microclimate; a frost pocket at the base of a slope creates a cold one.
A low-lying area where cold air collects on still nights, producing harder and more frequent frosts than surrounding ground. Common at the base of slopes, against south-facing walls, and in hollows. Frost-sensitive plants should be sited uphill from suspected frost pockets.
The practice of growing specific plants together to produce mutual benefits — pest deterrence, pollinator attraction, nitrogen fixing, or improved flavour. Classic examples: tomato with basil and marigold (pest-resistant trio); corn with beans and squash (the Three Sisters).
A garden bed built above ground level, typically 20-40cm tall, and filled with amended soil. Advantages: better drainage, less bending, warmer soil in spring, bypasses poor native soil. Disadvantages: higher upfront cost, faster moisture loss in summer.
The ideal garden soil — a balanced mix of sand, silt, and clay that drains well, holds nutrients, and is easy to work. Most Australian soils are not loam by default; loam-like soil is the goal of most soil-improvement efforts.
The measure of acidity or alkalinity in soil on a 0-14 scale. 7.0 is neutral; below 7 is acidic, above 7 is alkaline. Most vegetables prefer slightly acidic to neutral (pH 6.0-7.0). Incorrect pH makes nutrients chemically unavailable to plants even when fertiliser is applied.
Covering soil with a 5-10cm layer of organic material (straw, sugar cane, lucerne, woodchip) or inorganic material (gravel, stone). Reduces water evaporation by 50-70%, suppresses weeds, moderates soil temperature, and feeds soil as it breaks down. The single biggest improvement most AU gardens can make.
Planting different families of vegetables in different beds each season to break pest and disease cycles and balance soil nutrient use. A common four-year rotation: legumes, leafy greens, fruiting crops, root vegetables — then repeat.
Gradually exposing indoor-raised seedlings to outdoor conditions over 7-10 days before transplanting. Prevents sun scorch and transplant shock. Start with 1-2 hours of morning sun, extend daily, plant out once seedlings tolerate full-day exposure.
An insect that helps the garden, either by predating pests (ladybirds, lacewings, parasitic wasps) or pollinating crops (bees, hoverflies, butterflies). Encouraged by planting pollen-rich flowers year-round and avoiding broad-spectrum sprays.
A naturally occurring soil bacterium used as an organic pesticide. Effective against caterpillars (including cabbage white butterfly larvae) and some other larval pests; harmless to beneficial insects, bees, pets, and humans. Applied as a spray; degrades quickly in sunlight.
The release of biochemicals by one plant that inhibit the growth of neighbouring plants. Classic AU example: fennel suppresses most companion plants. Black walnut (Juglans) is the most famous allelopathic tree globally. Allelopathy explains several companion-planting 'do not pair' rules.