In short
Australia has five major climate zones and each has a different planting calendar. Tropical areas grow year-round but avoid the wet season for some crops. Subtropical and temperate zones follow classic warm and cool seasons. Cool-temperate has a short warm window. Arid zones grow mostly in cooler months. Match your crop to your zone and your month.
"Can I plant tomatoes in June in Melbourne?" No. "Should I sow peas in January in Darwin?" Also no. Most vegetable gardening failures in Australia come down to timing, not technique. You can have perfect soil, good seedlings and clean water, but if you plant the wrong crop in the wrong month, it will bolt, rot, or sit there refusing to grow.
This is the calendar I wish I'd had when I started. It's organised by climate zone first, because Australia is enormous and a "spring" in Hobart looks nothing like a "spring" in Brisbane. Find your zone, find your month, and you'll know what to put in the ground.
First — what zone are you in?
Australia has five broad vegetable-gardening climate zones. These are simpler than the Bureau of Meteorology's official classifications, but they match how gardeners actually plan. For a fuller breakdown, read our Australian climate zones explained guide, and if any of the terms below are unfamiliar, check our Australian gardening glossary.
- Tropical: Cairns, Darwin, the Top End, far north Queensland. Hot and humid year-round with a distinct wet season (roughly November to April).
- Subtropical: Brisbane, Gold Coast, Sunshine Coast, northern NSW coast. Mild winters, hot humid summers, frost-free near the coast.
- Temperate: Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth and most of coastal NSW, VIC, SA and WA. Four distinct seasons, occasional frosts inland.
- Cool-temperate: Tasmania, Canberra, the alpine belt, highland VIC and NSW. Cold winters with hard frosts and possible snow, short warm summer.
- Arid: Inland NSW, most of SA, central and western QLD, inland WA. Extreme summer heat, cold winter nights, low rainfall.
Australian seasons run December to February (summer), March to May (autumn), June to August (winter) and September to November (spring). Keep that in mind as you read the calendar. When a UK or US gardening site says "plant in spring," that's our September, not our March.
Tropical zone (Cairns, Darwin, Top End)
Tropical gardening in Australia runs on a different logic. You don't have hot and cold seasons — you have wet and dry. The dry season (roughly May to October) is when most vegetables thrive. The wet (November to April) brings heat, humidity and torrential rain that rots tomatoes, splits brassicas and invites fungal disease. You can still grow in the wet, but you lean on heat-loving, fast-maturing crops.
Tropical month-by-month
January – February (peak wet)
Plant: sweet potato, snake bean, okra, chilli, eggplant, ginger, turmeric, rosella, kang kong. Skip most leafy greens and tomatoes unless you have cover.
March – April (late wet)
Plant: cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, sweetcorn, capsicum, basil, Asian greens (pak choy, bok choy). Start planning the dry-season main crops.
May – June (early dry)
Prime time. Plant: tomatoes, capsicum, beans, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, silverbeet, carrots, beetroot, onions, spring onions, coriander, parsley.
July – August (cool dry)
Still excellent. Plant: peas (in cooler inland areas), more lettuce, Asian greens, radish, celery, leek, spinach. Keep succession sowing leafy greens.
September – October (late dry)
Temperatures rising fast. Plant: melons, cucumber, zucchini, sweetcorn, beans, sweet potato. Get leafy greens in early or skip them — they'll bolt.
November – December (early wet)
Plant: snake bean, okra, eggplant, chilli, sweet potato, pumpkin, kang kong. Anything that laughs at humidity.
Subtropical zone (Brisbane, Gold Coast, northern NSW)
Subtropical gardens are arguably the easiest in Australia. Winters are mild, summers are warm, and serious frost is rare near the coast. The challenge is the opposite of cold — peak summer humidity in January and February is too much for most leafy greens, which bolt and turn bitter. Plan around that and you can grow almost anything.
Subtropical month-by-month
January – February (hot and humid)
Plant: sweet potato, snake bean, okra, chilli, eggplant, capsicum (seedlings), basil, rosella, Ceylon spinach. Most traditional leafy greens will struggle.
March – April (autumn, ideal)
Prime time for cool-season starts. Plant: broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, kale, lettuce, spinach, silverbeet, carrots, beetroot, peas, broad beans, garlic (late April), onions, leeks, coriander, parsley.
May – June (mild winter)
Plant: peas, broad beans, garlic, onions, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, lettuce, spinach, silverbeet, carrots, radish, Asian greens. This is your most productive window.
July – August (late winter)
Plant: last of the peas and broad beans, lettuce, silverbeet, radish, spring onions, potatoes. Start tomato and capsicum seeds undercover for spring planting.
September – October (spring)
Plant: tomatoes, capsicum, chilli, eggplant, zucchini, cucumber, beans, sweetcorn, pumpkin, basil. Frost risk is over. Get warm-season crops in the ground.
November – December (early summer)
Plant: more beans, zucchini, cucumber, sweetcorn, melons, pumpkin, sweet potato, chilli. Stop sowing lettuce and spinach — they won't cope with what's coming.
Temperate zone (Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth)
The temperate zone covers most of Australia's major cities and has the clearest four-season rhythm. Frost is a real concern inland and in the cooler southern parts — Melbourne, Adelaide and inland Sydney can all get frosts from late May through September. Always check your local last-frost date before planting tomatoes, capsicum, basil or other tender crops.
Temperate month-by-month
January – February (high summer)
Plant: a last round of beans, zucchini, cucumber, sweetcorn, basil. Start autumn brassicas from seed in trays (broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage) for March planting.
March – April (autumn, golden window)
Plant: broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, kale, lettuce, spinach, silverbeet, rocket, Asian greens, carrots, beetroot, radish, peas (late April), broad beans, garlic, onions, coriander, parsley.
May – June (late autumn to early winter)
Plant: broad beans, peas, garlic, onions, spinach, silverbeet, lettuce (cool-weather varieties), kale, carrots, radish. Cover tender seedlings if frost threatens.
July – August (winter and late winter)
Plant: broad beans (last chance in most of the zone), garlic, onions, shallots, potatoes (late August in milder areas). Start tomato, capsicum and eggplant seeds indoors under heat.
September – October (spring, after last frost)
Plant: tomatoes, capsicum, eggplant, zucchini, cucumber, beans, sweetcorn, pumpkin, basil, lettuce, carrots, beetroot. In frost-prone areas wait until mid-October to plant anything tender outside.
November – December (late spring to early summer)
Plant: more tomatoes, beans, cucumber, zucchini, sweetcorn, melons, pumpkin, capsicum, chilli, basil. Succession-sow lettuce in a shadier spot as summer builds.
Cool-temperate zone (Tasmania, Canberra, alpine)
Cool-temperate Australia has the hardest vegetable calendar. Hard frosts can run from April to October, and some alpine spots get snow. You have a short window for warm-season crops — maybe four months — and most of the year is cool-season territory. The trick is starting tender crops indoors in late winter so they're ready to plant out the moment frost risk passes.
Cool-temperate month-by-month
January – February (short summer)
Plant: last beans, zucchini, cucumber, lettuce, spinach, silverbeet. Sow autumn brassica seeds in trays. This is your peak productive window — harvest hard.
March – April (autumn, fast cooling)
Plant: broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, kale, spinach, silverbeet, lettuce, rocket, Asian greens, garlic, onions, broad beans. Get everything in early — growth slows fast as nights cool.
May – June (winter starts)
Plant: garlic, broad beans (early May), onions. Shallots. Otherwise maintenance — cover crops with frost cloth, mulch heavily, let established brassicas keep sizing up.
July – August (deep winter)
Very little outdoor planting. Indoors: start tomato, capsicum, eggplant and basil seeds in a heated propagator for October–November planting. Plan and order seeds.
September – October (spring, frost still a risk)
Plant outside: peas, lettuce, spinach, silverbeet, kale, carrots, beetroot, radish, spring onions, potatoes. Keep tomato and capsicum seedlings undercover. Do not plant tender crops out until late October at the earliest in Hobart or Canberra.
November – December (late spring to early summer)
Plant out: tomatoes, capsicum, eggplant, zucchini, cucumber, beans, sweetcorn, basil, pumpkin. Keep frost cloth handy — a late frost can still hit in early November in the coldest spots.
Arid zone (inland NSW, SA, western QLD)
Arid gardens are defined by extremes. Summer can hit 45°C, winter nights can drop below zero, and rainfall is unreliable. The main growing window is autumn through spring when temperatures are manageable. Water management and shade become more important than frost protection. Most growers in arid areas do very little in peak summer except keep things alive.
Arid month-by-month
January – February (extreme heat)
Survival mode. Keep existing plants watered under shade cloth. Plant only the toughest: okra, chilli, snake bean, sweet potato, rosella. Start autumn seedlings undercover.
March – April (autumn, heat easing)
Plant: broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, kale, lettuce, spinach, silverbeet, carrots, beetroot, peas, broad beans, garlic (late April), onions, coriander, parsley. This is prime time.
May – June (mild days, cold nights)
Plant: broad beans, peas, garlic, onions, more brassicas, lettuce, spinach, silverbeet, carrots, radish. Watch for frost inland and mulch heavily to even out day-night temperature swings.
July – August (cold winter)
Plant: last of the broad beans and peas, garlic, onions, potatoes (late August), lettuce, radish. Start warm-season seedlings in a warm, sheltered spot.
September – October (spring, warming fast)
Plant: tomatoes, capsicum, eggplant, zucchini, cucumber, beans, sweetcorn, pumpkin, basil. Act early — the window before summer heat is short.
November – December (heat returning)
Plant: okra, snake bean, sweet potato, chilli, melons, pumpkin. Set up shade cloth on the vegetable beds now, before it's urgent.
Quick-reference: the 15 crops most people want to grow
If you just want a one-line answer for a specific crop, here it is. "Temperate" below means the bulk of Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide and Perth gardens.
- Tomatoes: Plant tropical May–July; subtropical August–November; temperate September–December (after last frost); cool-temperate October–December; arid September–October.
- Capsicum and chilli: Similar to tomatoes, but like it slightly warmer. In cool-temperate, wait until November.
- Eggplant: Needs real heat. Plant tropical year-round; subtropical September–January; temperate October–December; cool-temperate November only; arid September–October.
- Zucchini: Plant tropical April–August; subtropical August–February; temperate September–January; cool-temperate November–January; arid September–November.
- Cucumber: Same windows as zucchini across all zones.
- Beans (climbing and bush): Plant tropical March–August; subtropical August–March; temperate September–February; cool-temperate November–January; arid September–November and again March–April.
- Peas (snow, sugar-snap, shelling): Cool-season. Plant tropical May–July at altitude only; subtropical April–July; temperate March–August; cool-temperate March–May and August–October; arid March–July.
- Broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage: Plant tropical April–June; subtropical February–June; temperate January–May; cool-temperate January–April; arid February–May.
- Carrots: Year-round in most zones but best sown tropical March–August; subtropical February–September; temperate August–April (avoiding peak heat); cool-temperate September–March; arid February–September.
- Lettuce: Year-round in cool microclimates. Avoid peak summer everywhere. Best windows: tropical March–August; subtropical February–September; temperate and cool-temperate September–May with a break in midsummer; arid February–October.
- Silverbeet and spinach: Silverbeet is close to year-round everywhere except tropical wet. Spinach needs cool weather — autumn and winter in every zone.
- Onions: Plant tropical April–June; subtropical April–July; temperate March–August; cool-temperate March–June and August–September; arid March–July. Pick short-day varieties in the north, long-day in the south.
- Garlic: Plant in autumn for a late spring harvest. Tropical April–June (low-chill varieties only); subtropical April–May; temperate March–May; cool-temperate March–April; arid April–May.
- Basil: Loves heat. Plant tropical year-round; subtropical September–March; temperate October–February; cool-temperate November–January; arid September–November.
- Parsley and coriander: Parsley is near-year-round. Coriander bolts in heat — plant autumn and winter everywhere, and early spring in cool-temperate.
- Pumpkin and sweetcorn: Need a long warm season. Plant tropical April–September; subtropical August–January; temperate September–December; cool-temperate November–December only; arid September–November.
Frost, heat and the rules underneath the calendar
A planting calendar is a rough guide, not a contract. The real rules are simpler and more useful once you internalise them.
Know your last and first frost dates
In temperate and cool-temperate zones, these two dates define your warm-season window. Don't plant tomatoes, basil, capsicum, eggplant, beans or cucurbits outside until after your last frost. Don't expect them to keep producing once your first autumn frost lands. Your local council or state agriculture department usually publishes typical dates, and your own observation over two or three seasons will give you a better number than any online source.
Soil temperature matters more than air temperature
Most seeds need soil above 15°C to germinate reliably. Tomato and basil seeds want 20°C or more. A warm spring day doesn't mean much if the soil is still 10°C at 5cm depth. A cheap soil thermometer is one of the highest-leverage tools you can buy.
Heat is the tropical and arid equivalent of frost
In the north and inland, summer heat is what limits your calendar, not cold. Leafy greens bolt above 25–30°C, pollen on tomatoes becomes sterile above about 35°C, and anything unprotected in 40°C+ will bake. Shade cloth at 30–50% in summer is as essential as frost cloth in winter further south.
Succession plant, don't bulk plant
For fast crops (lettuce, radish, spinach, beans, coriander), sow a small amount every two to three weeks rather than a big bed at once. You'll eat better and waste less. For slow crops (brassicas, onions, garlic), plant once in the right window and let them take their time.
What to do next
Work out your zone. Find the month you're in. Pick two or three crops from that month's list that you actually want to eat. Put them in the ground or into seed trays this week. That is genuinely all there is to it.
If you're brand new to vegetable gardening, start with our how to start a vegetable garden from scratch guide before worrying too much about timing. If you're heading into winter, our guide to the best vegetables to grow in winter in Australia goes deeper on the cool-season crops mentioned above. And if any of the gardening terms in this piece were unfamiliar, the Australian gardening glossary has plain-English definitions.
Timing is the single biggest lever in an Australian vegetable garden. Get it roughly right and the rest of gardening becomes much more forgiving. Get it wrong and even perfect technique won't save you. Keep this calendar handy for your first few seasons, watch what actually happens in your patch, and start writing your own margins in — your local conditions will always be more accurate than any national guide.